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Hi, Greg. This is a follow up to a bonsai question I asked you ages ago.
Concerned about my bonsai drying up, you suggested I create a more humid
environment for it by watering it well and putting a plastic bag or
something around it to keep the moisture in. Unfortunately it was too late
for that particular bonsai (the third I'd killed), so I swore off ever
owning another. It just so happens, however, that I received a new one
about 8 weeks ago as a gift. A Tsukomo Cypress. As expected, it was only a
matter of time before the leaves started feeling crispy despite plenty of
moisure in the soil. The instruction leaflet suggested putting it in a
large pan with rocks and shallow water to keep the surrounding air moist,
but that didn't seem to help, so I decided to try your advice and create a
terrarium-type environment for it using a large, inverted, clear plastic
storage container. Within weeks it was covered in white, webby stuff I can
only assume to be a fungus. I took it out of the terrarium for several days
thinking I'd perhaps just made the environment too wet, and hoping the air
would kill off the fungus (it helped but didn't make it go away completely -
should I have tried to wash it off?), but then, the leaves beginning to dry
out even further, I put it back in. That was about two weeks ago, and once
again it looks as if the fungus is starting to thrive. The leaves are dry
and gray (I don't know if that's from the initial lack of humidity or the
effect of the fungus), but the rest of the plant appears healthy despite the
fungus. Can it be saved? How can I get rid of the fungus and keep it from
coming back? Should I become concerned if the leaves start to fall off or
is that to be expected? Could the size/material of the terrarium container
affect it? I live in an apartment and don't have anyplace I could keep the
plant outside, but other than that, I'm ready and willing to try just about
anything! Any advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated...
Thank you kindly!
Kimberly Lewis
Hi Kimberly,
Well you get an "A" for effort but we have to talk about your direction
following skills. First, there is a huge difference between water in the soil
and humidity around the foliage. Too much water in the soil will rot the
roots while at the same time the foliage could be drying out, hence my
plastic bag method for retaining moisture (humidity) around the foliage.
Secondly, we don't want to put these guys in a "terrarium." We want to put a
clear dry cleaner bag over them to allow for a little air flow. Your plastic
container was way too much of a good thing which is why you got the mold. The
plant needs air circulation and it had none. As with all things in nature,
we're talking balance here.
Simply spritz the foliage once every few days or so and cover with the dry
cleaner bag. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Pebble trays are a
good adjunct but as you found out they won't be enough if your apartment is
hot and dry. A humidifier would probably solve your problems with the bonsai
as well as all your other house plants except cacti and you would greatly
benefit from it as well.
Lastly, the description of the condition of this little guy doesn't sound
good. It the foliage has become "crispy" and moldy to boot it is surely dead.
The plant may push new foliage if you follow the above directions and if it's
not too far gone. Good luck and let me know how you make out.
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Greg, I have already heard much that I can apply in my
own yard re: mugos and forsythia. Thanks very much.
Q: I have two very tall (80-90') tulip poplars in the front yard close to
my home.
I would like to have them pruned from the top so they will be more in
proportion to landscape (and there will be less leaves seed pods dropping).
Will this damage them and make them suceptible to disease or whatever? Are
they fast growing? Do you recommend removal instead of pruning since I
don't get any shade from them although
it would be very costly.
Merry Christmas!
Joan
Hi Joan,
And to you! Tulip trees are extremely fast growing. Pruning them from the top
may let more sunlight in (if that's what you want) but it won't do anything
to bring them back into proportion. You will just end up with trunks.
If they're too big now they're going to be a lot bigger in about 20 minutes
or so. You may have to bite the bullet and replace them with something much
slower growing.
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Mike,
I usually have the radio on while getting dressed for work and usually
catch Greg Quinn's plant questions. Since I won't be going to work til next
Monday, I thought maybe he'd be listed here and I could ask a question for my
mother. But I guess I'll ask you instead, and maybe you can pass it along.
She has several Pothos (leafy plants) and a small palm tree. She also has 2
kittens that like to dig in the pots, and lay there. (They are not urinating
in the soil.) What can she put on the soil to stop this? I had suggested
red pepper (cayenne pepper). Maybe there is something better. Many thanks
if you can respond.
Sandy
Hi Sandy,
I have found red pepper works well with my cats. I prefer the flakes and
don't spare them. If you still have trouble, try moth flakes.
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Hi Greg,
I have a Chipper/Shredder and shredded all my leaves last fall. My question
is can I place these shredded leaves around trees and evergreens to prevent
weeds from coming up in the spring.
Thanks Len
Hi Len,
The problem with using shredded leaves is that sometimes they contain disease
spores which are often killed in the composting process. You can try it but I
prefer wood chips and leave the leaves to the compost pile.
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I brought my geraniums inside this year. How do I care for them so they will
look beautiful next summer? Do I cut them back and if so when and how far?
Thank you very much. Love listening and learning from you. Have a great
holiday!
Thanks for the compliment. The best way is to take cuttings from them and
make new "clones." Cut 3-4 inches from the growing tips. set the cutting
aside on a shelf for a few days then dip the cut ends in rooting hormone and
plant them in "sterile" seed starting mix. Keep them very slightly damp and
provide good florescent light no more than 12 inches from the tips. You can
make a lot of plants from the ones you have.
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Hi Greg.............What is the best time of year to transplant a full grown
Burning Bush; and what fertilizer shall I use? b
Hi b, You can transplant your euyonomous (burning bush) in the first part of April. Prepare the hole with compost and feed it with a 10-6-4.
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Hi Greg! First of all, thanks for the wealth of information that you share with us! I have just inherited an hibiscus - it is an established shrub of approximately 5 1/2 feet tall, and of course has been brought in for the winter. The people who gave it to me said that it has not flowered for the past year or two. Can you give me some general guidelines for how to best treat this plant? It is in a very bright room that has eastern and northern exposure. What soil conditions are best? Does it need to be misted? What about feeding? Thanks so much! Joan
Hi Joan, Your hibiscus will, almost certainly, not flower during the winter unless you have a green house or the perfect conditions which most people don't. However you can keep it alive and doing well in your bright room. Keep it slightly moist and feed it with a 15-30-15 such as Miracle-Gro according to label directions. In the middle of May cut back 25% of the total height, continue to feed and put it outside. If you intend to place it in full sun, ease it into this situation much the same as you take sun yourself. Too much too soon will sunburn the leaves and they will turn white and fall off.
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Dear Greg - Fifteen years ago I went to Hawaii on my honeymoon. I brought a plant stem from a store, it was wrapped in plastic. When I came home I planted it and it grew beautifully, I even had flowers. Then I moved. All the leaves turned brown and I started again with a stem. It took years, but it grew back, beautifully, but no flowers. The pot was to small so I repotted it in a much bigger pot. I took it well. Seven years later I moved again, again the leaves turned brown and I started again with a stem. I changed location from morning sunlight, no good. Then I repotted to a smaller pot, because I really don't want this plant to die. I gave it little water once in a while because I figured it likes to be dry since it's from Hawaii. I changed location to afternoon sunlight. Something is starting to growing from the bulb in the soil not from the original stem. It's about 2" high. Do you have any idea what kind of plant this is? What else can I do to save this plant? Should I trim the original stem?
Thanks for your response. I enjoy listening to you and learned a few. On Mike and Kasey's in the morning on WHUD. Rosie Reilly Lagrange, NY
Hi Rosie, I'm afraid I'd need a lot more information to tell you what it is or how to care for it. The only thing I know is that it's a plant with a stem and flowers from Hawaii. As general rules of thumb for plants from this part of the world, I can offer the following advice. I would stop transplanting it and moving it and let it get used to it's environment, feed it with a 15-30-15 according to label directions, and provide good humidity while keeping the soil only slightly moist. Good luck.
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