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Greg Quinn's thought for the day: To handle yourself, use your head; To handle others, use your heart.

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I planted aconite 2 summers ago and this past fall (not the summer, as I had hoped) was the first time they bloomed. The one plant was about 3' high and had lovely flowers. Then the plant yellowed and so I cut it back. Will it regenerate? Any suggestions? Thank you, Julie Henderson

Hi Julie, There are about 100 species of Aconite (also called Monk's Hood, Blue Rocket. Friar's Cap or Auld Wife's Huid) including one called Winter Aconite which, in fact, is not a true Aconite but a relative in the Buttercup Family (which are all relatives of true Aconite). I'm not sure which one you have but all are hardy perennials and as such should come back with no problem. You should be aware the aconite is one of the most poisonous of all plants and the only one producing crystalline akyloids. While it is a common plant in many gardens it should not be grown with kitchen herbs or other edible crops. Even the 'juice' of the leaves, stem or root in an open cut has the potential to cause problems. I feed my Aconite with a water soluble 15-30-15 fertilizer starting in May according to label directions.

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I have been receiving garden catalogs in the mail, and have decided on purchasing 3 fruit trees. I was just wondering when would be the best time to plant them, and what special care I should give them. I think they need fertilization and protection in the winter for the first few years, but that's about all I know. I could really use some advise. Thank you!

Of course different species require some different care but generally speaking, Fruit trees can be planted either spring or fall (early in both cases). Plant them in a hole with lots of rich compost and a couple handfuls of 5-10-5 mixed in. Water the hole to the point of soaking before putting the tree in and always plant at the exact depth they were planted in. If it's a dry year, keep them well watered the first year. Fruit trees will not require protection the first year because they are deciduous except, of course from the deer!

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Hi Greg! First of all, I want you to know how much I enjoy your spot on the radio with Ed and Mike (my favorite radio show). Maybe you can help with this inquiry. When I drive to and from work along a country road in Chester, NY, I notice this very tall tree which is pyramidal in shape (like a pine or sprice), but with deciduous leaves. One fall, (thinking it was an evergreen)I thought the tree had died since it had turned brown; but it turned green again the next spring. I know it's not an oak because the leaves on this tree are very small. Any idea?

That's not much to go on but a good guess would be the Larch or sometimes called the Tammarack. It is one of the few deciduous (looses its leaves) conifers (bears cones like an 'evergreen'). Let me know if I'm right.

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Hi Greg, I have a young banana plant that was doing well until about 2 months ago. Although I have it in a warm, sunny spot - it's growth has slowed tremendously and when the new leaves open they appear to have some type of rust. The edges of the new leaves turn brown and begin to dry up before the leaf has opened completely. I've repotted and checked carefully for insects but have found none. This rusty appearance is not like a mildew that can be wiped off, it's spread throughout the entire leaf. Is there anything I can do to save my banana? Tonya

Hi Tonya, Bananas are tricky things in captivity. In the outside world they will grow for as little as 18 months, produce fruit and die and have to be replanted for the next crop. It's hard to diagnose but it's possible your little banana has just lived it's life. They're not long lived plants especially in captivity.

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Hi Greg! I listen to you every Thursday morning before I head out the door to school! I thoroughly enjoy your humor and keep a pad and pencil nearby so I can jot down your advice. The school I teach in has a greenhouse and courtyard. One of our staff members was recently awarded a grant for planting supplies. We are a primary school in Peekskill (Oakside Primary School) housing grades one and two. Can you recommend types of hardy seeds that grow rather quickly and could be easily cared for indoors by senior citizens (part of the grant was to share our plants within the community)? How does one go about cutting and rooting pieces from existing geraniums (another part of the grant was to share existing plants and teach the children the process). Before I read your bio I was going to ask if you ever do local school visits - it sounds like you're a pretty busy man. Do you ever have time in your schedule to talk to school children? If so we'd like to see if we could arrange something with you. Thank you so much! Karen Wallis

Hi Karen, Many plants grown from seeds will be annuals which mean they will live only for a year or so. You should organize your choices according to flowers, herbs (with subcategories of edible, medicinal, tea, scented, etc.), and vegetables. There are so many choices in these categories that it's hard to recommend some because I don't know what your plans and needs are. I would suggest to load up on seed catalogs (which are in everyone's mailbox these days) and make your decisions with growing conditions, pictures and descriptions at your fingertips. Geraniums can easily be grown from cuttings. Take several cuttings 2-3 inches from the growing tips and pinch off any flowers or buds. Lay the cutting on a shelf for a couple of days until the cut end puckers up. Then, dust the cut end with rooting hormone (from the garden center) and pot them up in flats of coarse or sharp builder's sand (not beach). Keep it slightly damp and start checking for roots in about 2 weeks. You can then transplant them into individual pots. Thanks for the invitation but as you've guessed, my time is fairly filled up. When I have new children's books out (I have 8 so far), speaking to kids is one of my favorite things to do but I find I have less and less time overall.

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About 5 years ago a bought a dozen 3' Emerald Aborvitae scrubs. I was hoping they would flourish so they would create a nice privacy line from my road, I was instructed they would grow up to 8 feet high and 5 feet wide. Well, about 3 winters ago, the deer got through the fence I assemble every fall to protect them. The deer got to about 6 of them, but they did not kill them. They came back slowly with lots of TLC and they are catching up to the shrubs that were not picked at. I have been feeding them Hollytone every spring and fall as the package instructs but they have not increased in size as I hoped. What should/can I do to help them flourish and grow in size (they are about 5' tall now)????? Thanks, Eric L.

Hi Eric, Arborvitae, when healthy, should grow to 12 feet at the rate of 6-12 inches per year depending on conditions. The more direct sun the better / faster the growth. I would feed my Arbs with a 10-6-4 or 20-10-10 fertilizer in April, June and November and make sure they receive FULL sun, consistent water throughout the growing season and, of course, keep Bambi and his homies outa da hood.

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Greg: I have a Christmas Cactus that is 34 years old. I received a cutting when I was 8 years old from my Grandmother's friend and it has grown wonderfully. The problem is that we have not transplanted it for about 10 years into a bigger pot, it is really getting big now and I am afraid to do so, I don't want to hurt it. Can you please tell me when would be a good time to transplant, and what soil mixture to use. Right now it is still blooming, the flowers are gorgeous. I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Janet Hargadon

Christmas Cacti really like to be root bound and don't need to be transplanted very often. If you really think it needs to be transplanted, don't do it until we are out of the heating season in the middle of May. Then, transplant only in the next size pot (from an 8in. to a 10 in. for example) and add the same type of soil as it is growing in. You may also want to pinch the first segment of each leaf when you do it. It should do fine. Good luck

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Greg Quinn's thought for the day: Why is lemon juice made with artificial flavor, and dishwashing liquid made with real lemons?

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Hi Greg, I have a dumb cane plant with lots of foliage. Usually, they just grow tall with a few leaves at the top. Mine has leaves from top to bottom. My problem is that the plant is nearing the ceiling and I am at a lost as to how to stop the upward growth without destroying the plant. This plant is over six feet tall and I have already cut this plant and started three others. I just don't want to plant any more offshoots and cutting the plant down doesn't really decrease it's size much, but seems to accelerate growth. Thanks for any help you provide.

Your dumb cane or Dieffenbachia seems to be doing better than most. I know of no way to "stop" it from growing short of "the permanent solution." You can, of course keep cutting it into logs and rooting the logs and planting them up, give them away as presents, sell them, pay off the mortgage......

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I have a succulent cactus that is all brown on the bottom but the tip seems to keep on growing. I have had it for two years. The other problem is that it has grown crooked. What I mean is that it is leaning to the right. What can I do help it? How do I properly care for it?

It sound like your cactus is not getting enough light. I would increase the direct light and turn it every so often to keep it from leaning towards the light and getting crooked.

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SIR, MY PLANT (Rubber Plant) HAS LEAFS ON THE BOTTOM AND ON THE TOP OF EACH STALK, BUT NOTHING IN THE MIDDLE. THE PLANT IS 5 YEARS OLD AND BY A WINDOW. THE POT IS ON THE FLOOR IT IS ABOUT 6 FT TALL. HOW CAN I GET THE MIDDLE PART TO GROW LEAFS THANK YOU

It's tough to get a rubber plant to refoliate in the middle. Ficus generally will refoliate but usually only on the growing tips. Try a fertilizer with a high first number such as fish emulsion (5-1-1) or a 20-10-10. Good luck.

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Greg Quinn's Thought for the day:

To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research.

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Hi Greg, Love the program on WHUD. I'm looking for a pink flowering tree, the flower looks like feathers. Someone told me its called a mimosoa tree? Sorry if I spelled it wrong. We had one in Upper Greenwood Lake NJ and in Washingtonville, so I know it can survive here in Cornwall. How do you take care of it and above all where can I get one. Thanks for your time. Irene Reynolds

Hi Irene, Actually, Mimosa, (Albizia julibrissin) and sometimes called the 'silk tree' are quite common in this area and quite easy to grow. Most nurseries will stock them in the spring. Plant it in a hole rich with compost. Grow it in full sun and give it an annual feeding with a 5-10-5 fertilizer. Enjoy.

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Hello Greg, how are you? Thanks for taking questions....You may have already answered this one but here goes... We have several holly bushes (both male & female) and would like to know if there is a good time to 'lightly prune' them without interferring with the setting of the berries. Our plants normally get a lot of berries and we don't want to do anything which will affect them. Thanks for your help..keep up the good work.... Regards, Barbara and Frank Davide, Monroe, New York

Hi Barbara and Frank, I'm well, thanks. Enjoying the winter and getting ready for spring. I give my Hollies a light haircut in the in the early spring (around the 1st of April) before any new growth starts. That will not interfere with the onset of flowers and subsequently berries. Thanks for the kind words.

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We have just moved into a new home and will need to plant a lawn in the spring. What steps to planting do you recommend, and do you have any seed, fertilizer or hay/covering tips? The area we will be covering is mixed sun and shade, Thanks!

The most important aspect of any planting, including lawns is the correct preparation of the soil. Test the pH and make sure that is between 7.0 and 7.4. Correct it now with lime if it is lower. Before planting, cover the whole area with compost and work it in. Level it and plant a grass mixture that has approximately 1/3 Blue grass, 1/3 Perennial Rye and 1/3 Fescue. Lightly cover the newly seeded area with salt hay and don't walk on it for two weeks after the new grass appears. Give it 1 inch of water per week (spread out) for the entire season to get well rooted in. Enjoy your new lawn.